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 hese are general growing instructions that apply to
cattleya hybrids, BC, BLC, LC, POT, etc., hereafter referred to as
cattleyas. These instructions also apply to the warm growing evergreen
dendrobiums, the general requirements for which are the same as for
cattleyas.
TEMPERATURE: Cattleyas and dendrobiums are intermediate to warm
growing. Temperatures of 58°F nighttime low to 85°F daytime high are
ideal. Daytime temperatures in the 90's can be tolerated provided there is
enough moisture and air movement. Plants should be protected against
temperatures below 55°F (day or night).
AIR MOVEMENT: Cattleyas and dendrobiums like plenty of fresh
air. Gentle moving fresh air is probably the greatest deterrent to
bacterial and fungal diseases.
LIGHT: Cattleyas and dendrobiums, like all blooming plants, get
their energy to bloom from light. They do best in a light range of 2000 FC
to 3000 FC, based on seasonal day length. Plants must be protected from
direct sunlight and over heating.
WATER: Successful growing of cattleyas and dendrobiums requires
proper watering. Frequency of watering as well as quality of water is
important. Water with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is ideal; however, most drinking
water can be used. City water tends to have a higher pH, but the plants
will tolerate the higher pH within reason. Fertilizer tends to lower the
pH.
When to water: As often as necessary! It would be impossible
for anyone to give you an exact watering schedule for cattleyas,
dendrobiums, or any other orchids. Each person has different growing
conditions, different potting material, pot size, drainage, temperature,
humidity, and probably most important, different air
movements.
Cattleyas and dendrobiums should never be allowed to
become completely dry. Water when the potting material becomes just damp
below the surface. Water thoroughly. Let the water flush through the
potting material at least every second or third watering. This will
"leach" the potting material and prevent a buildup of "salts" in the
media. If a buildup of salts is allowed, the root system will be damaged
and eventually die off.
Remember, flush your
pots! Do not allow a buildup of salts that can kill your roots and
eventually your plants.
POTTING: Cattleyas and dendrobiums, in most cases, should
be repotted every two years, usually shortly after blooming. Cattleyas and
dendrobiums will grow well in plastic or clay pots; however, growing
conditions will be different between plastic and clay. Plants in plastic
tend to dry out more slowly. When repotting, 25 to 30% of pot volume
should be drainage material placed in the bottom. Good drainage materials
include rocks, Styrofoam "peanuts" and agricultural charcoal. Net pots are
an excellent source of drainage and aeration. Place the net pot open-side
down in the center of clay/plastic pot and pot plant as usual. For pots 4
- 6 inches, use a 2 inch net pot; use a 3 inch net pot for larger
pots.
Potting materials can be:
- cocoanut chips (a non-endangered, replenishable product);
- fir bark - alone or in combination with other items;
- tree fern or tree fern mixes;
- several other materials can be used, such as non-organic, porous
stones sold for orchids.
Each potting material will require
some changes in cultural requirements, especially water.
FERTILIZER: Cattleyas and dendrobiums respond well to
fertilizer. However, these points should be kept in mind:
a. All plants use fertilizer in direct proportion to the
amount of light received:
low light + short days = less fertilizer high light + long
days = more fertilizer b. Weak fertilizer applied more often
is better than strong applications.
c. Use fertilizer at 1 to 1
1/2 teaspoons per gallon of water every three weeks in winter and every
two weeks in summer (based on Florida).
d. Fertilizer can be used
every time you water provided you:
1. use 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, and
2.
flush the pot every one to two waterings.
e. Use a good
water-soluble, balanced fertilizer. If you are growing in fir bark, then
a 30-10-10 fertilizer should be used.
f. Note: Throw & Grow
is an excellent time-release fertilizer, working up to one
year.
We also strongly recommend Ag-Tonic and ATsE-1 as a spray
foliar-feed and all around fertilizer. Ag-Tonic will not burn the leaves
or roots of plants and contains every trace element known to be required
for plant growth and flowering.
Remember, more fertilizer will not make more flowers; in
fact, too much fertilizer can reduce the number of flowers.
DISEASE: Bacterial - Fungal - Viral
Cattleyas and
dendrobiums are fairly disease resistant. Physan or RD20 (see Other Notes)
will take care of most bacterial and fungal problems. Where possible,
remove the infected area and spray drench the complete plant, especially
the cut areas, with Physan or RD20. Spray all plants that were near the
diseased plant.
Prevention: The best prevention for
bacterial and fungal disease problems is a combination of:
a. good air movement;
b. keeping temperatures in an
acceptable range; and
c. making sure plants (not potting medium)
are dry before nightfall. If plants are not dry in late afternoon, spray
the leaves with 2 teaspoons Physan or RD20 mixed in one gallon of water.
This should dry the leaves and sterilize the plants.
The above
care should eliminate bacterial and fungal
problems.
Virus: There is no
known cure for viral infections. Prevention is the only defense
against viral disease! Clean growing areas and sterile tools are
essential. Sterilize all tools before using on EACH plant. We recommend a
propane torch to heat sterilize all tools, clips, stakes, etc. Used clay
pots should be soaked for 20 minutes in a solution of 20% Clorox bleach
and thoroughly rinsed. Plastic pots should not be reused.
PESTS: There are several insect pests that enjoy orchids:
scale, mealy bugs, snails, slugs, aphids, spider mites and others. Because
of the restrictions of insecticides and their use, I suggest that you use
an insecticide recommended by the manufacturer for the specific insect. A
good source for this information is your area agriculture extension
agent.
Neem oil is a nontoxic, biodegradable insect repellent,
insecticide, bactericide and fungicide from the Neem tree of India. In
India, neem is used as a medical treatment both internally and externally.
Neem oil is not USDA approved for use on orchids. However, in experimental
testing we have found neem oil kept our houses "bug" free for six months.
Our houses were sprayed November 1, 1997 and again May 1, 1998. Neem oil is for experimental use only.
OTHER NOTES: SuperThrive is highly recommended for use
at _ teaspoon to a gallon of water in addition to or mixed with
fertilizer. Repotting Spray. At the Blue Pagoda we use the following
mixture to thoroughly spray the complete plant, especially the roots and
any cut areas. Use it to spray the entire plant after removing it from the
pot, and when repotting is complete to sterilize, give the plant a boost
and to help prevent transplant shock.
Add to one gallon of water:
2 teaspoons Physan or
RD20
1 teaspoon water-soluble fertilizer
1/2 teaspoon
SuperThrive
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