SBOE - GROWING INSTRUCTIONS

	Growing Instructions - Cymbidiums
	Most cymbidium hybrids are built from a half-dozen or so cymbidium species. These species are native to the foothills of the Himalayas and mountainous areas of Burma, Thailand, and Vietnam. In sub-tropical areas such as California, cymbidiums are standard garden and patio plants and are great house plants when in bloom. Cymbidiums are not suited for year-round culture in the house.
	Light This is the most important factor in attaining good cymbidium culture. Without proper light you will see weak growth and no flowers. Foliage should be yellowish-green in color. Too much light will result in a pale yellow color and if burned, a black spot at the arch of the leaf will be noticed. If severely burned, the leaf will be bleached white. Mature plants get 55% shade.Filtered light all day or full morning sun is the rule. Temperature Temperatures under 90ºF and above 40ºF are ideal. During heat spells it will be essential to boost the humidity. In the lower range the plants can take 32ºF but should be given some protection in the temperature drops further. Damage to spikes will occur at 27ºF and to the plant at 25ºF. To guard against effects of the cold we recommend that the plants be moved up against a house or under a tree. If a plant goes above 58ºF to 60ºF at night for any extended time the buds may turn yellow and drop off. Spikes are initiated in autumn when the differential in day/night temperatures plays a key role. Water Generally, we advise customers to water once a week in winter and twice a week during the heat of summer. Of course, extended periods of dry heat, winds, rain, and/or cold will alter this cultural advise. One rule remains constant; when watering, water thoroughly. Once to wet the mix, and once again for the roots. The coarser the medium, the more often you will have to water. Fertilizer Fertilizer must be provided throughout the year since the potting medium provides very little. A time release fertilizer such as Osmocote, which provides roughly one application per year, is sufficient for mature plants. We recommend Osmocote 17-6-10 becuase of its trace elements. Also, a well balanced fertilizer such as Peters 20-20-20 or Dyna-Gro Grow is good. We recommend using them weekly, weakly (½ strength). Pests Cymbidium's enemy number one is rep spider mite. Symptoms are tiny white dots on the underside of the leaves, giving the overall appearance of being silvery. Control using a miticide, following the recommended dosage. Enemy number two is scale. These resemble tiny brown umbrella-like structures on the upper surface of the leaves. Use a garden insecticide that lists scale. Repeat application three times a day at ten day intervals. Aphids are the other most frequently encountered pest. They are usually noticed on the buds and flowers and can sometimes be discouraged by wiping the colonies off by hand, or by misting them off with water. Use mild rose or flower sprays, or the garden aerosols. Apply lightly but thoroughly-excessive applications to the buds can result in burning. Snails and slugs-although common, these garden pests are as pervasive as can be. Fortunately, they are easily controlled through a conscientious baiting program. Not all snail baits control slugs and sow bugs, however, so read the label carefully. Repotting When the potting mix has decomposed, or the plant is growing over the sides of the pot, it is time to repot and/or divide your cymbudium. We recommend repotting your plant every 3 to 4 years. To do so, first take the plant out of the pot and remove the old bark. If you decide to divide the plant, look for natural divisions which allow three to five bulb groupings. If the dormant bulbs (back bulbs) can be removed without destroying the strength of the division, remove them. These can be potted up and be blooming in three to five years. When repotting, select a pot which will allow the plant to grow unrestrained for three to four years. Usually, two inches between the plant and the side of the pot is sufficient. Before placing the plant in the pot, remove any roots which have died or flattened out. If you cut the roots off, remember to sterilize that cutting tool before working on another plant. When placing the plant in the pot, position the bulbs so they will be just a little into the medium (about a ¼ of the bulb). Be sure the newest growth is in the center of the pot, allowing the plant to stretch across the pot. As you pour in the fir bark (1/8 to 1/4 inch size) around the roots, firmly tap the sides of the pot and push down with your thumbs on the top to endure a frim potting. Come see us for a potting demonstration.!
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